Frico, one of the culinary gems of Italian regional cuisine, remains inexplicably well-known almost exclusively in its home region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, while it is largely unknown elsewhere. This limited recognition can likely be attributed to its origins as a hearty, caloric dish, crafted from humble ingredients to sustain those who toiled in the fields.
Originally, frico was a staple for early risers heading out to work, designed to serve two main purposes: to be economical for households and to provide adequate energy for laborers. In the mountainous Friuli Carnico region, where frico originated, nearly every farming family owned at least one cow. The milk was taken to local dairies, ensuring a modest yet vital income and allowing families to receive leftover cheese scraps, known as strissulis.
It was these scraps that savvy homemakers transformed into a dish of remarkable energy, enhanced with garden produce like potatoes, onions, and occasionally an egg, along with a slice of pork belly during colder days. Today, frico boasts a seemingly endless variety of preparations, using various cheeses of differing ages and sometimes incorporating gourmet ingredients like speck, particularly in the Sauris area.
A visit to one of the regional taverns that serve frico is always a delightful and stimulating experience, albeit a bit challenging for the stomach!
Mario D'Aurizio
